Category: Cycle Across Europe

Join the adventure of cycling across Europe from the UK to Lisbon, traveling through the Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland, France, and Spain. This post features personal stories, beautiful photos, and highlights from the diverse landscapes and cultures experienced along the route.

Bike Lanes, Beer And Super Wim

Posted on by Ryan

Upon arrival in Zeebrugge we left the ferry terminal and my mind almost imploded attempting to turn left at a roundabout in the right-hand lane. After getting our bearings we soon joined the fietsnetwork, an intricate group of bike paths that span the majority of Belgium. Its was beautiful riding on another hot day, the frequent turns and map checking made for slow progress though. The first evening was to be spent in Gent which was only about a 40 mile ride even after going round the houses a little bit even detouring in the Netherlands for a couple of miles. One thing I will say about the suburbs in this region is that alot of effort has gone into the homes and street layout, with barely a thing looking out of place or rundown, lots of idyllic pretty towns.

Flat as a pancake all the way to Gent we coasted most the way, I shouldn’t need my bottom cog until we get closer to the Ardennes. We found the campsite which was part of a larger sports complex that included park, tennis courts, swimming pool etc. Gent is home to some mind blowing medieval architecture, the next morning we could have spent hours gawping up at the spires of St. Nicholas’ Church. It quickly became apparent a fry up breakfast is not going to be had on the continent. As substitute however the immense choice of pastries for 1 Euro each holds us up pretty good past lunch.

In Belgium, bicycles seem to cross infront of cars without warning and have right of way. We have found on several occasions whilst standing slightly lost by the roadside that cars have stopped in anticipation of us crossing the road only to cause a line of cars to be queued up, oops! Every road is sidelined by a bike lane, you really cannot take a turn onto a bad road because even the buisest have the dedicated lanes. Thats not just in the cities either, we rode a quick 35 miles without a turn from Gent to Antwerp on the N70, a primary road, with a perfect bike path the entire route.

On Wednesday we were staying with my friend Wim in Mortsel, a suburb south-east of Antwerp-centrum. We had spent a month on the road together back in 2010 and I hadn’t seen him since. After he had finished work he gave us a brief tour of Antwerp by bicycle followed by a sample of the local brew, De Koninck.

Back at Wim’s place he proceeded to bestow us with the most amazing hospitality we could only have dreamed of. Wim is an experienced bicycle tourer so he knew just how to please and also how much we appreciated his geneoristy. Firstly dishing up some fine BBQ and much needed salad which was accompanied by a refreshing mojito with leaves snipped from his patch. He then pulled out the big guns (Joe Meyer, I hope your taking note for when we hit Pittsburgh), first an extra blond bier, Vedett, followed by a blue Chimay Trappiste. At this point the strong Belgium beer was beginning to hit, we had already had several that afternoon. The final showstopper was a Rochefort 10, an 11.3% monster dark as the night.

That was just about enough to knock us out cold after an amazing night with Wim and Anka sharing memories and talking about Belgium brilliance. I thought about how my decision to go on the previous tour had led to mine and Wim’s meeting resulting in this great evening. I can only hope that everybody else I meet is as awesome as Wim and Anka, thanks guys I owe you one.

Then There Were Two

Posted on by Ryan

Hottest day of the year, not a cloud in sight, sunburn city. I was telling people all last week what a bad idea it was to start rolling immediately after finishing work and also organising a 5 month bike trip and country change at the same time. All stresses out the way we eventually hit the road after saying goodbye to parents, brothers and friends who came to wave us off,  Doug even managed to get an impromptu slow clap going, cheers guys.

Lewy was riding with us for the first 15 or so miles as we told him he should just come along for the trip and not turn home. We had battled up Carlton Bank, a mean lump of earth snaking up into the moors, I’ve ridden it without problems unloaded in the past but with a bike loaded like a tank it was painful and killed us all.

Fittingly Lewy (nicknamed Chopper for his football style) left us at Chop Gate, 3 best friends split unevenly didn’t seem fair. We both wish Lewy could have been rolling with us too but he can come out to visit once we get to Oz.

After navigating the rest of the 50 mile ride past Malton we closed in on our campground for the evening. Unsurpisingly Hill Top Farm was at the summit of a nasty looking 14% grade climb. It was an odd joint which seemed to have eastern european workers living onsite. £5 for camping, that didn’t include shower facilities, basin wash and some wet wipes sufficed. Nice.

The next day riding toward the ferry terminal our good friend Chia had a day off and arranged to ride out and meet us on the edge of the town where he works as a dental surgeon. He guided us into Beverley, an historic and well pointed place. Me and Eal were both suprised we hadn’t heard or visited before. It was like York before the stag parties got involved, although I do enjoy a good ‘Leo Sayer’ in York, it just seemed slightly more classy and quaint. We went for lunch which Chia insisted on paying for (thanks Chee) and then he rolled with us half way towards Hull to catch the Ferry. Hull must be commended for its bike lanes, for 8 miles right up to the Terminal we had designated paths and great directions.

We were assigned to the motorcycle area for boarding and got quite abit of interest from our motorised brethren. After comparing spokes, chains and weight distribution we had to join them riding onto the ferry which was almost ceremonial as we rolled aboard in tandem. Once aboard in the parking area with engines still revving Eal said, “Its boiling in here”, I joked “yeah its ferry hot”, after repeating the joke a few times he still wasn’t following so I gave up. Hit the room, took a shower and watched us drift off to sea as night rolled in with a few pints.

England has been a good break-in ride but nothing is new to us and there are no surprises, cannot wait to get to Belgium, this feels like the real beginning.

Left And Leaving

Posted on by Ryan

This isn’t all smiles and Huckleberry Finn. You have to make quite a few sacrifices when going on a lengthy bike tour, friends, family, clean clothes and a comfy bed are just a few. Why would somebody choose to make themselves homeless whilst exhausting themselves physically on a daily basis for months on end? For me its the simplicity and a truth that I get from traveling by bicycle, a return to basic needs. You appreciate the finer things in life, a cold drink or a clear sky become the most important items on the agenda, for now I’ll take a big road and a bike over a big house and a car.

Saying goodbyes is made all the more difficult when you are surrounded by such great people. Me and Eal have spent the past week bidding farewell to close friends and colleagues, consisting of full English fry ups, kick-abouts in the park and nights out in Middlesbrough frequenting many of the best local watering holes.

Training rides have been worked in where possible and a final ‘fully loaded’ gear check ride was made last Wednesday to work out any kinks. My front rack and mudguard situation causing a last minute headache eventually resolved by simply having the right tools! Something which I neglected on my previous big tour, this time I will be armed with lock-ring, chain whip and small adjustable wrench to combat my most dreaded of maintenance problems, broken spokes. The new rig however, a Dawes Ultra Galaxy Touring bike is a strong steed, no corners cut this time around which I’m hoping means a smoother journey ahead. I will also have front, back and handlebar bags this time around putting 60% of my weight in the front to compensate for the additional pressure I put on the back. This weight distribution should help even out the strain on the wheels from the torque generated by each pedal turn of my extremely heavy geared up bike.

The start will be a casual 2 day ride to Hull where we catch the Ferry across to Belgium on Monday evening. I have arranged to stay with my friend Wim from the USA tour on Wednesday in Mortsel,  so we have split out the initial riding days on the continent to make sure we can pay him a visit. A good target average will be around 65 miles per day, but for the first week this will be more like 40. We have until July 5th to get to Lisbon for our flight to Boston. So I’m ready to hit the ground running but at a measured pace.