Tag: new zealand bike tour

Almost Dunedin

Posted on by Ryan

Waking to freshly powdered mountain tops surrounding Queenstown I was eager to get out and explore. First things first, laundry,  restocking inventory etc. I met a couple of other bike tourers from Germany finishing up breakfast. They had spent a rest day here yesterday but were hitting the road once again. Chores done, me, Eal and our hostel roomie, Adrian from Adelaide decided to hike up Ben Lomond lookout. We quizzed Adrian with Australia questions during the steep 1 hour hike as adrenalin fuelled mountain bikers rattled fearlessly downhill past us. The view of QT and The Remarkables mountain range was stunning. Grey clouds began to sprinkle us with light snow, just after I had been exclaiming how my upcoming birthday would be the first spent in warm climes. These mountains don’t respect my seasons, but I forgive them as they are majestic as they are immovable.

Eal finally had a shave, the first since Boston I think, but left the ‘tash for the night out we were going to have with a bunch of people we friended over pool in the hostel. Entering a bar/club packed to the rafters with music blaring felt very alien, I wasn’t digging the people or their elbow bashing. I’m not anti-social, far from, it was just a situation that I didn’t feel comfortable in somehow. Spending so long out on the road seemed to make the whole situation all the harder to engage with. Me and eal had two drinks before retiring to a quieter place in search of gown, slipper and pipes. A place we had agreed to visit as our old technical directors brother was the bar manager. He treat us to a free nightcap, fun conversation and the first half of the Man Utd – Arsenal game, lunchtime KOs are midnight in NZ.

The second Queenstown rest day, Eal wasn’t feeling to great, possibly coming down with man-flu, so I wandered the town and lake generally feeling a little aimless. With the trip drawing to a close there is so much to organize and prepare for the Australia chapter that I was slightly overwhelmed by it all. Wanting to do everything but failing to do anything I just stared at the mountains and watched the ducks whilst thinking about jobs, locations, accommodation, bank accounts, visas. Today was the first day I shifted from thinking about upcoming riding to accepting it was coming to an end with the reality of pressure I’d submerged myself in, by leaving my comfortable UK life, weighed heavy on my mind. Pick-me-up and or hug needed. Knowing that I have people wishing positive thoughts for me around the world always helps me believe in myself.

Leaving QT we had some backtracking the same way we had came into town before diverting east towards Alexandra. Eal was still feeling pretty lousy with slight fever and general fatigue. We made hard work of a relatively short flat days ride but thankfully had delightful warmshowers hosts waiting at the end of the day for us. Our first in NZ and their first guests of what becomes a busy season with their house situated bang on the central Otago rail trail.

There would be steep climbing to follow that morning, with short, sharp hills reminiscent of riding in the Pennines, tough work. I knew immediately Eal had now gone from feeling under the weather to being down right sick. After the first flurry of climbs I paused to wait for him, he was really struggling and in need of a bed, sleep and lemsip. Unfortunately we didn’t have many options other than Lawrence. The mileage wasn’t too bad but at current speed would take considerable time. He simply had no energy and had to ride in low chain-rings throughout.

Given Eal’s sickness, sleeping bag thermal range and the cold night forecast, camping was off the cards. I scored a small cabin room which is offered at almost every NZ campground. Basic but warm, with beds. Eal pretty much collapsed and tucked himself in the sheets. I rode out to find us food, fish and chips! The smell alone picked Eals spirits up and he managed to eat a fair bit before going to sleep. It was still early, around 8pm but I rolled over and went to sleep myself, exhausted. Both having accepted we are ready to be over with riding and living out of panniers, 6 months is a long time to be without the consistency of house keys, familiar walls, regular showers and a reliably stocked fridge. As with all aspects of bicycle touring, its easily as much mentally demanding as it is physical, which cannot be underestimated.

A glorious spring morning reminded me to cherish this last week in New Zealand. I flew out of the traps to the first town half way through the ride. I sat out an ate food picked up from the market waiting for Eal who was still taking it easy. By the time he caught up he had taken a turn for the worse, throwing up by the roadside and in no fit state to pedal another stroke. We had to get to Dunedin today, it was only another 20 miles but there was little to no public transport. At the information centre the old volunteer lady, Nancy called the only operating bus company that passes through. The one and only service for the day had just passed through but they agreed to turn around and pick us up! I sprinted down to the park bench Eal was resting by to tell him and get to the stop ready. We arrived in Dunedin, located the hostel we had booked and tucked Eal up straight in bed with some medication.

Eal felt better the following day, albeit still pretty weak having not eaten properly for several days. I went for a ride out to the peninsula in hope of seeing a yellow-eyed penguin that our Alexandra warmshowers host informed us about. It was tough riding even with the unloaded bike, followed by a long hike across the sand, sidestepping sleeping sea lions (worth the sweat alone) to reach the wooden hideout situated by nesting areas. Having been warned to be patient I waited for around an hour as I began to lose hope of seeing a penguin.

Finally a little pingu slid ashore to my delight and waddled its way towards the rocks, hopping 2 feet at a time between gaps, very agile! So happy with the experience I had a smile wider than Stockton high street for the rest of the evening. Special little pengbird, thanks. Dunedin is a very scottish town, bagpipes can be heard all round the city. NZ’s architectural captial, it felt very much like a typical British city. This would be the final rest time until we finish for good in Christchurch on my birthday in a few days time!

You Can Only Get Wet Once

Posted on by Ryan

Most hostels have a free food shelf in the fridges for items people are leaving behind. Last night I had eyed up 4 eggs in a carton that I was going to have for breakfast this morning. I went through at 6am to boil some dippies only to find they had been eaten already! Dang nabbit’.

I set out into a drizzly morning with just 15 miles of riding to catch up Eal in Franz Josef. This would still include 3 reasonably steep but short passes that got me warmed up nicely. I arrived by 9am to find Eal having cofffee, he had spent the past few days thinking I was ahead of him rather than behind. So had been racing ahead each day trying to catch me up. We would be spending the afternoon on a guided hike up Fox Glacier. Preparing for the hike we added a few more bicycle layers, the company provides trousers, jacket, boots, cramp-ons. It was a clear, sunny day though so the gear stayed in my pack the entire time.

We had a short 15 minute walk through the valley to get to the terminus of the Glacier. It was an incredible experience stepping onto the ice pack, we hiked up further checking out all its glorious features up close. The few hours we spent whizzed by, I didn’t want to leave. Phenomenal place.

Leaving Fox Glacier the next day conditions were still bright but it wouldn’t last. When the rain came it was cold, heavy and relentless. There is nothing nada, zilch for the 75 mile ride between Fox and Haast. Snack stops were made stood in the pouring rain, water trickling from the front of my helmet. The only restbite from the torrential rain came in a small shelter on a lookout. I spent a few minutes reading the information boards on local sea birds and ate the rest of my cookie pack. Not a good idea to hang around too long whilst cold and wet. I got going sharpish to keep my body temp up.

I kept my body as rigid as possible so not to feel my wet crinkly coat and sopping lyrca pants against my skin more than I had to. On downhills the rain felt like I was staring at a cold shower jet, with no way of dry wiping my face, I just blinked endlessly. Finally making it to Haast at our accommodation for the evening which is best described as a converted community centre. Good stock of fire wood though, all socks, shoes and cyclewear laid out to dry. I was just relieved the 8 hours riding in rain was over. Definitely taken to a new place mentally today, I wouldn’t call it real adversity but I know I can cope spending all day in those conditions. Although we aren’t even attempting to camp with the current condition of our tents and clothes. Good job New Zealand is geared towards backpackers.

Apparently the weather hadn’t read my script for this morning. The rain from yesterday was still coming down, puddles were now lakes. Determined to keep dry feet today I employed a shopping bag technique over my socks. It was quite funny knowing we had spent all evening dry out our things only for them to get soaking wet within seconds of riding again.

There would be absolutely nothing again today between start and end point. The initial riding was traversing up river but nothing too taxing. There was one small shelter before we crossed the river at the scarily named ‘Gates of Haast’ where I ducked out the rain for a few seconds to devour a few bananas. From here the climbing began, it was super steep and winding. Rarely on this trip have I had to stand up for entire climbs. Thankfully it levelled out nicely towards the top of the pass and in total wasn’t too long. I stopped briefly to talk with some trampers about bicycle touring. Wary of the fact I was wet and cold with a downhill to follow I got going again.

The rain had finally stopped for the last 10 miles to Makarora which consists of a few farms and a small holiday village where we would be staying. The buildings were all triangular and quirky. I scored a bed in one of the dorms and was already showered, sat sipping Earl Grey by the time Eal turned up looking as I had, shivering, bewildered, spent. We got the fire going without any kindling, score! Lucky for us there would be nobody else arriving that evening so we had the dorm block to ourself. Bazinga!

The cycling gods finally showed mercy on us for the ride to Queenstown. Clear skies and strong, gusty tailwinds. The first 40 miles to Wanaka were probably the easiest I have experienced as the winds urged us over hills and across straights at speed. Wanaka was a beautiful outdoors type town right on the lake. Eal caught up with me whilst I was having lunch then we set out into the afternoon, heading over the crown range as the temperature soared.

The landscape, heat and narrow road up the crown range reminded me of riding along the Columbia river gorge. The view distance at the top stretched out for miles, you could see Queenstown low in the valley by the lake. The descent was made terrifying by the low guard rails on the cliff side. The immense winds and narrow hairpin turns meant I was constantly gravitating towards the edge.

6 miles from Queenstown we jumped on an off road bike path that would take us into town, it was rideable and gave us a break from the cars of highway 6. This place is the main south island destination for backpackers, hikers, thrill seekers, pub crawlers etc. Everybody we have met talks about going to or having been to Queenstown. Its suited in the middle of several epic mountain ranges, we have a few days schedule to see what all the hype is about.

 

First Impressions Of South Island

Posted on by Ryan

Getting on the Ferry at Wellington in the afternoon we were joined by about 20 guys all riding super nice road bikes on a charity tour and one other fellow loaded tourer from Vancouver. The journey took just over 2 hours, Eal didn’t bring his sea legs with him and felt a little nauseous,  it did get quite choppy. Still, up on top deck the view of the Marlbrough sounds made for a staggeringly beautiful entrance to the south island and our destination for the evening, Picton. We located a campground just 2 miles from the terminal, our tents had been packed away wet the whole time in Wellington so now they smelt like a damp football sock. Breathe through your mouth time. Excited for the south island. Our second ferry ride of the trip done, just one more plane to catch now from Christchurch to Brisbane.

The next morning was a public holiday in NZ, labor day. We had been advised to checkout Renwick and the surrounding wineries that are linked with trails especially for bikes, it was also home to the MOA beer brewery. Only 25 miles from Picton but seemed too good to miss so we covered the ground early and stopped for lunch at the 3 bears cafe to line our stomachs. Watson’s Backpackers in town hooked us up with a sweet deal to camp in the garden and use all the kitchen, shower facilities. Bags unloaded we swiftly headed back out towards the cellar doors that we had passed coming into town on what was a perfect sunny spring afternoon.

We stopped by a few tasting rooms, a couple of regular culture vultures decked in lycra. Hmmm. This is white wine and bubbles territory, mostly delightful and unique. Mid-way through vineyard hopping we hit the MOA brewery, 3/5 were good drops including one that I couldn’t resist buying a bottle of for the road tomorrow. The last vineyard was right in town, Gibson Bridge. It was the smallest in the area, a family ran place. Julie gave us by far the most entertaining and engaging chat over the tasting. Her husband, Howard, came out to talk with us about our trip for a while past closing time then pulled out some free wine for us to take away, thanks guys!


After failing to find a suitable ATM in Picton or Renwick we were both low on cash, unfortunately towns for the next few days looked like being few and far apart with extremely limited services. Stocking up at the supermarket before riding I made sure I had enough meals and snacks for three days. I find this difficult on a bike, its hard to resist tomorrow’s chocolate bar when you have already devoured today’s ration by 10am. Gone are the days I could rely on Flavia for a swedish fish treat in the afternoons and Eal eats all 3 days worth before he’s even started riding! ‘When they’re gone they’re gone’ as my mum used to say with the sweets.

There was literally nothing leaving Renwick except for stunning scenery. Rest stops were made by the roadside sitting on grass. At one point Eal caught up with me as I was perched by a fence having lunch in the sun. By the time we got to riding again it started to sleet! The icey showers coming straight off the surrounding mountains. The dramatic change in weather and temperature had us pulling on all kinds of layers to stay warm. We were both attacked by the most aggressive magpie yet, this one had swooped at eal from the front and clattered his helmet from behind! Strong headwinds blasted us from the west, the only positive being that it pushed all the nasty weather over our heads and the blue skies prevailed once again.

A steep climb took us past ski field signs to St Arnaud that brought us out at the base of the stunning Lake Rotoiti, in amongst the mountains. It would be a fairly primitive camp, with bench and small shelter for us to sit out the cold, despite one side being open to the elements. A frosty night ahead had Eal concerned. My sleeping bag is rated extreme for -11C his is down to 1C. Ducks joined in with dinner which was then washed down with the superb MOA Five Hops I had carried with me from yesterday.

I woke up cold several times in the night with my nose, the only exposed body part, freezing cold. I was happy to get a response from Eal to my shout at 8am in the morning to know he hadn’t frozen solid. Our feet were like ice blocks, there was a tiny gas station in St Arnaud and that was it, we stopped in there to thaw out for half an hour before heading out. It remained chilly throughout the day, I sported my extra layer of fleece gloves most the time.

Destination for the evening was another primitive campspot called Lyell just off highway 6, down deep in the Buller river gorge which we would be riding all day. So we were thankful to find the town of Murchison, the first real settlement since Renwick, at least had a small supermarket to restock with some treats before continuing towards the NZ outback. Two days without shower and tomorrow I will add some more sweat to that just for good measure. The cold makes it tricky to layer correctly. The last thing you want to do in these temps is start sweating under layers because then if you stop and the wind picks up you will get the worst of chills. Thankfully it was milder than last night, so I was able to save my hoody from coming into contact with my rancid bike attire.