Day 19 of 7312 June 2010

Day 19: Kentucky Wine

Day 19: Kentucky Wine
View route map — see where this day sits on the trail
Route overview

73 days, one line across the country

67 riding days · 6 rest days · 4,227 miles · Yorktown, Virginia → the Oregon coast

Start — Yorktown (Atlantic start), VADay 1 — Chickahominy Riverfront Park, VADay 2 — Ashland, VADay 3 — Ashland, VADay 4 — Mineral, VADay 5 — Charlottesville, VADay 6 — Afton, VADay 7 — Lexington, VADay 8 — Lexington, VA — rest dayDay 9 — Daleville, VADay 10 — Radford, VADay 11 — Rural Retreat, VADay 12 — Damascus, VADay 13 — Rosedale, VADay 14 — Breaks Interstate Park, VADay 15 — Hindman, KYDay 16 — Hindman, KY — rest dayDay 17 — Booneville, KYDay 18 — Berea, KYDay 19 — Bardstown area, KY (you are here)Day 20 — Hodgenville, KYDay 21 — Rough River Dam State Park, KYDay 22 — Sebree, KYDay 23 — Cave-In-Rock, ILDay 24 — Eddyville, KYDay 25 — Carbondale, ILDay 26 — Carbondale, IL — rest dayDay 27 — Chester, ILDay 28 — Pilot Knob, MODay 29 — Eminence, MODay 30 — Houston, MODay 31 — Fair Grove, MODay 32 — Golden City, MODay 33 — Chanute, KSDay 34 — Eureka, KSDay 35 — Newton, KSDay 36 — Larned, KSDay 37 — Ness City, KSDay 38 — Scott City, KSDay 39 — Sheridan Lake, CODay 40 — Haswell, CODay 41 — Pueblo, CODay 42 — Pueblo, CO — rest dayDay 43 — Cañon City, CODay 44 — Fairplay, CODay 45 — Silverthorne, CODay 46 — Hot Sulphur Springs, CODay 47 — Walden, CODay 48 — Saratoga, WYDay 49 — Rawlins, WYDay 50 — Jeffrey City, WYDay 51 — Lander, WYDay 52 — Lander, WY — rest dayDay 53 — Dubois, WYDay 54 — Colter Bay, Grand Teton NP, WYDay 55 — Grant Village, Yellowstone NP, WYDay 56 — West Yellowstone, MTDay 57 — Ennis, MTDay 58 — Twin Bridges, MTDay 59 — Jackson, MTDay 60 — Darby, MTDay 61 — Missoula, MTDay 62 — Missoula, MT — rest dayDay 63 — Powell, IDDay 64 — Kooskia, IDDay 65 — Riggins, IDDay 66 — Cambridge, IDDay 67 — Richland, ORDay 68 — Baker City, ORDay 69 — Mount Vernon, ORDay 70 — Mitchell, ORDay 71 — Redmond, ORDay 72 — Eugene, ORDay 73 — Florence (Pacific Ocean), ORYachats, ORLincoln City, ORPortland, OR

Every dot is a real day on the trail, placed from the towns named in that day's post — click one to jump straight to it. Hollow-ringed dots are rest days along the way. The lighter branch up the coast is the post-ride detour to Portland. A few days without a clearly named stop are interpolated between the nearest confirmed ones. The highlighted dot is where you are right now.

OriginalStorytelling

67.67 miles (Total: 841.86) Average Speed: 11.4mph Max Speed: 39mph

I start the morning on the phone to my bank, they had blocked my attempt to top up my travel card online. The online protection at Halifax has gone overboard recently, every transaction I’ve been making has been blocked or verified. After straightening things out I finally get my stuff together concious of the fact I seem to always be the last one packing up at the minute.

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It’s a glorious morning, not only is the scenery stunning but we soon realise the roads are flat and at worst gently rolling. The barns on each farm have strange decorative symbols and we even pass a bunch of Alpacas, Kentucky continues to surprise. The ride comes to a halt when we approach a barrier with road closed signs. I remember a similar situation on one of the first days and insist we will be able to walk our bikes through. Once past we soon find half the road caved in with stationary machinery where workers must have been but as expected we could walk through no problem.

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Barns with strange symbols

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Flying V Formation

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We stop for refueling at small store who made us some great fresh sandwiches before pushing on towards Harodsburg, at this point we still weren’t certain of where to stay. Once we reached Harrodsburg we had managed 46 miles. Feeling good to push on we decided to go a further 25 miles for a campsite so with our heads down pushed on. The single lane roads were busy and I cursed each pickup driver that flew past at 120mph, exhaust spewing fumes in my face as I struggle through tiredness. The drivers in Kentucky have not been as nice as Virginia. The gangs spirits are tested further by 2 huge dogs that chase after Joe causing him to nearly swerve off the road, a young guy eventually gets them back under control and I give him some strong verbal advice on how to keep his pets safe not only from cars but from the pepper spray that us cyclist carry.

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Guess this is where the old signs go

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Not again.

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Joe & Cooper

As tiredness kicks in we stop every couple miles and I tell Terry how much further we have to go. The fact were in yet another dry county annoys everyone but then out of the blue we spot a winery sign and its right on route. As we turn the corner a guy drives up to ask where were all from, I then ask him if the winery is up ahead, he replies “Sure, I’ll just turn round and go open up for you”. Seconds later were invited in and sipping this guys sample wines! We also learn hes a local police constable and he explains this is one of the only premises in the county permittted to sell alcohol. He then insists we can pitch our tents next to the winery before offering us all to take a shower in his house across the road. We stand with huge grins in disbelief at how the evening just got turned upside down so quickly. Donny the host then tells us he is leaving the winery door open so we can use the rest room during the night and that should the forcast storm get bad we can all go inside. Cooper and Terry cook up the pasta meal we had bought stuff for earlier and we sip the bottles of Elderberry and Blackberry wine we purchased. Donny soon returns with a crate of beer he had drove to the next county to buy and joins us for a brew.

The night topped any yet but as we crawl into our tents lightening in the distance illuminates the sky. Thunder calls and threatens for a few hours and eventually the storm kicks in. I immediately grab my things and out towards the winery, Terry is already doing the same and we call Cooper and Joe. We sleep on the floor with our roll mats and sleeping bags as the storm booms outside as I laid there wondering how these miraculous things keep happening on the trip and soon come to the conclusion that if I started all over again it would be no different. Cycle touring is bitter sweet.

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This ones for my sister.

7 comments from 2010

mum12 June 2010

Hi Rye,still meeting yet more amazing friendly people, sorry to hear cooper leaving you,but im sure you will become lifelong friends & keep intouch, amy will probs freak out just looking at that spider,brill updates, luv mum xxx

Amy (sister)12 June 2010

Ryan, I can't believe you put that pic at the end of your blog, just after I enjoyed reading it I have the creeps now and it has also set Dad and Brian off talking about creepy spiders!! Were just off to one of Brians mates to watch the match now, is there a bit of transatlantic rivalry in your camp tonight? Enjoy x

ryan12 June 2010

As nobody here really cares about football I spent most of the game telling them who the USA players were. Cooper has rescheduled to be with us for another week until next Friday when we will be about halfway through Missouri.

Ben13 June 2010

Nice pic @ the end. Loving the winery guy and lol@ you giving that guy some verbal abuse!

Genevieve13 June 2010

Looks like an emaciated Fishing Spider... poor thing! (@Amy: I'm a former arachnaphobe. Seriously!) @Ryan. In 'Merica, when they talk about "football" they usually mean "handegg"... The Green gaffe was tragic (and buggered my pool predictions). Glad to hear Cooper is on board for another week. Have fun! Btw, the old man just completed his third "Ride to Conquer Cancer"... and I'm still in my pajamas.

Mike Anderson14 June 2010

Ryan, You should be script writer.Your grandmother and others would thank you for helping, in their name, raise $16.2 Million this weekend on the ride to conquer cancer. Glad Coop is staying another week

Keith15 June 2010

Hiya ry,Booze at last,bet that tasted sweet.England outstanding as norm against the mighty USA.Take it easy.