Land Down Under

Arriving in Brisbane we were welcomed not only by warmer temperatures but by more wonderful Warmshowers hosts, John and Carolyn — thank you both, especially for the incredible mangoes. It would prove a short-lived stay. Between riding up Mount Coot-tha, catching up with Terry from the TransAm ride, and what felt like a never-ending wait over job prospects, I was eventually offered a place in Brisbane, but also a job in Perth. Given that my cousin Glen and my old school friends Will and Pete had all recently moved out there, it was hardly a difficult decision. By then Eal had made up his mind too — it was time for him to head home, in time for Christmas. Saying goodbye felt strange as I set off to fly clean across the country, from Queensland to Western Australia. I was completely cut up in the taxi to the airport. The trip had ended, and despite being genuinely excited to start working again, I felt unexpectedly sad. We’d had such a good run of it, living out of one another’s pockets for six months and more, and I doubted I’d see Eal again for at least another six.

Carolyn with one of her chickens.

John leading us into Brisbane.

White Ibis

Atop Mount Coot-Tha

So I started afresh in Perth, made all the easier by close friends helping me settle, just as the road angels had done for me since last May. Here come the thank-yous: warmest wishes to Wim, Javier, Norma and Bob, John Lynch, Deb Franke, Jeffrey Odolski, Kyler, Joe Meyer, Bill and Kate Morris, Terry Strout, Elsie Hanning, Donn Olson, Bob Bergren, Greg Siple at Adventure Cycling, Emily B, Flavia, Julianna and Ivan, John and Jessi, Kevin and Jenny, John and Carolyn, the Detour Bar in Petersburg, Iowa, Hellgate Cyclery, and Larry Buzzard of Spokesmen Cycling. All of them, and plenty more besides, are the reason bicycle touring is as enjoyable and worthwhile as it is.

WA’s bikewest network is huge :-)

Christmas Day in Oz

Me and Glen, happy as Larry.

Awwww, Quokka!

Christmas morning skype.

I don’t yet know how long I’ll be in Oz. If it stretches past a year I’ll plan on a trip home around Easter, but for now I’m simply enjoying the chance to live and work somewhere so remarkable. The following pair of images are true enough, though offered mostly in jest — if you can’t laugh a little about being from Middlesbrough, you’re struggling.

Old town.

Old commute along Portrack lane.

New town.

New commute along the Swan River bike path.

Mr Kitty guarding my copy of Adventure Cyclist magazine.

This post brings the blog to a close, though I’m not sure I’m entirely comfortable with the idea of closure. I’ve always grown attached to my experiences and memories and trips, daydreamed about them far too much, and taken more pleasure than is probably healthy in reminiscing. It’s hard to explain bicycle touring to somebody who’s never done it. It isn’t some elite club — anyone can do it. Not many do, though. It has brought me closer to the person I want to be, and closer to new friends in a shorter space of time than I’d have thought possible. It has shown me a kind of simplicity and happiness that plenty of people spend their whole lives chasing, and given me an appreciation for the smallest things. Smile. Be kind. Wave to a stranger. Do a good turn for a neighbour and notice the warmth it brings back to you. There’s no remedy for love but to love more.

Now go and ride a bicycle like you’re ten years old again.

That’s all folks! — Your buddy, Ryan